RV General Maintenance Tips

RV General Maintenance Tips

Here are some suggestions for making your coach last longer with fewer repairs. Thanks to the folks on CompuServe where this was originally posted.

AIR CONDITIONING UNITS
Clean the air filters inside, usually by unscrewing the cover and removing the filters and washing them in detergent. Clean the outside condenser coil (looks like a radiator) - turn off the power, remove the cover and use detergent and a garden hose to spray water through the coil (keep the water off the wiring and motor using plastic bags during the job). With the power off, inspect the wiring at the switches, thermostat and compressor for discoloration (signs of heating or burning), replace any such terminals. Terminals are generally 30 cents each.

AUXILIARY GENERATOR SETS
Gasoline fuel units present added problems with the arrival of new 'clean burning fuels'. These fuels have a higher percentage of easily evaporated fractions of hydrocarbons. These lighter fractions evaporate from the carburetor float bowl when the generator is not in use for a week or more, leaving heavy tars and solids that then clog the delicate orifices in the carburetor. Many newer units feature non-rebuildable carburetors, replacement cost run several hundred dollars. This problem can be eliminated by installing a fuel line cut off valve, and running the generator dry before any long shutdowns.

Fuel preservatives have a spotty record at preventing the problem, but are advisable for longer shut downs since the vehicle will require good fuel on start up. Follow your service manual maintenance procedure and consider switching to a synthetic oil, and a Teflon additive. The synthetic oil will greatly reduce carbon formations in the cylinder heads, and reduce the need for periodic re carbonizing.

SOLID WASTE TANK
There are four RVC MEMBERS problems:

1. Non dissolving papers and debris.
2. Leaking drain valve, drains off water and leaves solids to accumulate into a solid mass that will not drain.
3. Damage to drain valve by closing against paper still in the valve. Biohazards

Use dissolving papers, test in sink. Many cheaper tissues will fall apart when wet. This is the kind to use. Flush the tank with clean water several times if you suspect a buildup. Do not force the drain valve closed. Instead, flush the tank to remove any paper clogging the valve area. This will reduce damage to the valve seals when closing the valve and prevent liquid leakage and a clogged solid tank.

Use a suitable holding tank treatment. I use Thedford's blue powder. Keep the drain hoses tight as waste leakage on the ground carries assorted pathogens and parasites that can infect the surrounding soil. A regular cleaning reduces the buildup of these populations. Treat any wet areas around the tank fittings with a 10% chlorine bleach and water solution prior to contact.

Install a mud flap several inches in front of the waste if these are located behind the rear tires. Rocks picked up in the duals, or a tread coming off a defective tire will ruin the tank. Repair can be difficult.

COMPUTERS/ELECTRONICS. TV'S/VCR'S ETC.
Dirty power supplies from the auxiliary generator during shutdowns, and low voltage in a park during peak loads, can ruin sensitive electronic devices. A UPS system (Uninterrupted Power Supply) can be installed on circuits supplying computers, etc. If incorporated with a Photo Voltaic (PV) solar system, this can be an inexpensive addition and allow many of the conveniences of home even when parked while on the road without having to run the gen. set.

ENGINES
The new synthetic oils on the market (Mobile One was the first) offer vastly superior performance compared to the usual mineral oils. While mineral based oils if changed every 2,000 to 3,000 miles will give excellent engine life, often approaching 200,000 miles, none will provide the reliability of synthetic oil, especially in extreme weather. These oils have been tested in controlled galling tests on rotating shafts and been found generally 300 to 400% more heat and friction resistant than mineral oils. When compared with many of the metal treatments on the market. Slick 50 etc., engine life and reliability can be greatly enhanced, and the oil change interval safely extended to 6,000 miles.

I also recommend an after market water pump, to increase engine cooling and reliability. All radiator hoses and heater hoses should be changed per the manufacturers recommendations or every 2 or 3 years if reliability is a consideration, especially if operating in very hot weather or under heavy loads up hills.

If you have an older, poorly serviced engine, I recommend an oil flush treatment prior to draining the oil, and a quart of ATF fluid in the oil for the next 2,000 miles with Slick 50 or other Teflon treatment added. Then a change to a good synthetic oil, a Dura Lube and Enviro-Tech type additive.

TRANSMISSIONS
Heat is the RVC MEMBERS enemy of any automatic transmission. By installing a dash mounted temperature indicator with a sensor in the bottom pan of the transmission, this oil temperature can be monitored, and the transmission given a chance to cool (most generally on very hot days pulling a load or going uphill). By keeping the transmission cool, even adding extra oil cooling equipment, transmission life and reliability can be greatly extended. It only takes a little slippage at elevated temperatures to ruin a transmission. There is a vacuum sensor on the intake manifold of many engines that can be adjusted to provide a crisper shift, and reduce slipping... this faulty sensor is the real cause behind many apparent transmission failures. It could ruin the plates in your transmission, but adding six ounces of brake fluid will expand the plate material and allow you time to get in for a rebuild in the event the transmission is slipping too badly to drive.

RV FINISH, TRIM AND CHROME
Summary: Use Enviro-Tech's incredible waterless cleaner. It's vastly easier that water washing, easily cleans off bugs and road tar that soap and water won't touch, and leaves a bright dirt rejecting seal that last for months. Goes on right over the dirt, and wipes off to a brilliant shine, and absolutely will not scratch the finish! Cost is about the same as a 25 cent car wash. (For $45 you can become a dealer and buy the product for even less...a MLM marketing arrangement.)

Washing your RV with water has several liabilities, especially in units with the vinyl welt in the seams. Water enters through screw holes and trim, and rots the wood framing and base plywood. This is major damage and the RVC_MEMBERS cause of motor home degradation, especially the class C mini motor home range of equipment. If you do use water, my advice is to avoid the use of pressurized car wash type systems, and opt for a sponge and bucket. Spray seams under the vinyl welting periodically with a silicone based spray (available at hardware stores.)

BATTERIES AND 12 VOLT SYSTEM
Batteries should be kept fully charged as much as possible. A small PV battery charging system will do this for you, and greatly extend battery life. A PV system on the engine battery will greatly reduce the strain on the engines alternator increase its life and reliability as well. 12 volt fuse panels and connectors can be kept clean and corrosion free with WD 40. If you have a 12 volt DC to 120 volt AC inverter, it is probably not the modified sine wave high efficiency variety. Switching to this type will come close to doubling your available power and battery life. You can sometimes rejuvenate a deep cell battery by fully discharging it for a day or so, then trickle charging it for a week. Repeat 2 or 3 times if necessary.

I recommend a 300 amp fuse (rated at 250 vac) be installed in the ground cable on the RV 12 vdc system. This will protect against catastrophic wiring harness failure, and while not fool proof, may save your vehicle in some circumstances.

GAS-ELECTRIC REFRIGERATORS/WATER HEATERS/FURNACES
When one of these fails to ignite the burner, try unplugging and cleaning the contacts on the wire harness plug ins to the ignition module. Another problem with the refrigerators is the burner tube is generally made of mild steel, and large flakes of rust form inside and fall down over the burner. This tube can be cleaned with a bent wire and compressed air to greatly reduce problems and increase cooling capacity in many cases.

If this fails you may find that you can manually light the pilot light for a few seconds after the unit is turned on, and the unit may operate satisfactorily in this mode until the ignition device can be replaced.

Source http://www.rvclub.com