RV Cooking. Sweet Potato Fries Recipe
Visit an interesting, history-rich cluster of small Georgia towns with full-time RVer Evanne Schmarder and learn how to make some delicious sweet potato fries in this episode of the RV Cooking Show.
Sweet Potato Fries
1-2 sweet potatoes (see note below)
2 T olive oil
1/2-1 t sea salt (to taste)
1 T fresh shopped rosemary
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Scrub sweet potatoes and cut up into uniform, thick, fry size-sized spears - leaving skins on if desired. Place in a ziploc
bag. Add rosemary, salt and olive oil to bag. Seal bag and mix thoroughly to coat every single potato spear.
Turn out onto baking sheet (preferably with sides) and bake 20-35 minutes - without turning - until soft inside and crisp on the outside.
Enjoy with a sandwich, grilled meats or alone as a snack...they are delicious!!
Note: Both "sweet potatoes" (the light brown skinned, white fleshed ones) and "garnet yams" (the brown/red skinned, orange fleshed ones)
are both actual sweet potatoes - just different varieties. The white are starchier. The orange are sweeter and smoother. Try them together...mmm!!
June 20, 2008
RV Cooking. Sweet Potato Fries Recipe Video
Do-It-Yourself RV Care - RV Preventive Maintenance
Do-It-Yourself RV Care - RV Preventive Maintenance
Here is a great online video by gary Bunzer of some easy do it yourself RV care. Follow these steps and your RV will be ready to roll!
2008 Country Coach Affinity. Country Coach Affinity 700 Custom
2008 Country Coach Affinity. Coach Affinity 700 Custom
Country Coach have told Roaming Times that only about 50 Affinity coaches are built each year - with a starting price of around $730,000. Waiting time if you want one? About 9 months.
The 2008 Country Coach Affinity 700 Custom has 10 available floorplans - 7 of these have quad slides. Overall lengths are 45', 42' and 40'. We show 3 of the floorplans below - one in each of the available lengths.
The 45' Saint Helena is shown below. We think this is a beautiful arrangement with 4 slides and of course, the 45' length giving lots of space - very luxurious space! Another 45' arrangement (not shown), the Silverado Trail, provide bunk beds for those with family needs.
Just some of the features of the 2008 Country Coach Affinity:
DynoMax® chassis: semi-monocoque construction of 8″ x 3″ x 1/4″ steel-tube with welded components
Engine option: Caterpillar® C15 625 HP at 2100 RPM with 1900 ft-lbs torque at 1200 RPM and Caterpillar CX31 transmission (meets 2007 EPA emissions requirements)
Engine option: Cummins® ISX 600 HP at 1800 RPM with 1850 ft-lbs torque at 1400 RPM and Allison 4000 MH transmission (meets 2007 EPA emissions requirements)
6-way power-adjustable massage/heated driver and passenger seats with two-position memory, 3-point restraint, adjustable headrests and 2-way lumbar support (driver seat offers a sliding seat cushion and the passenger seat provides a power footrest)
Double-din touch-screen color rear/side-view monitor with Kenwood AM/FM/satellite radio stereo and compact disc controls with remote 10-disc CD changer, MP3 player input, Bluetooth® interface, and two speakers
Garmin® GPS navigation system option with XM Smart Antenna and color LCD touch-screen interface (XM weather, XM traffic, and XM radio available with subscription)
Many new standards and options for 2008
RV Exterior Maintenance Tips. Keep Your RV In Perfect Shape
RV Exterior Maintenance Tips.
Annual maintenance tips to keep your RV in perfect shape!!
Clean your RV from the top down so that you're following the direction of gravity. If you can, clean the roof too so that dirt doesn't run down the sides during rain and heavy dew.
RV Exterior Maintenance Tips.
Wash the exterior of your unit.
Check all of the roof and window seals and caulk any gaps.
Cover all of the vents to prevent insect nests and leaves.
Make sure the awning is clean and dry.
Cover the tires.
Turn off the propane.
Clean the interior.
Remove all food.
Defrost the refrigerator and clean the seals. An open box of baking soda and leaving the door propped open will also help.
Charge the batteries.
Shut off the master switch to the batteries.
Steps to winterize your RV
There are two ways to winterize your water system. How cold it's going to get where you are could determine the method you use.
By Air
To blow out the lines, you will need a blowout plug.
Make certain that your unit is level and empty the fresh water tank.
Turn on the water pump and open each faucet. Run the faucet until the water stops flowing.
Do this also with the toilet valve and the exterior shower. Lay the shower head on the ground to make certain it is completely drained. Rubber band the toilet sprayer handle open.
Release the water suction in the city water hookup by pressing on the cone shaped valve in the center of the connection.
Turn off the water pump. If it has a reservoir, remove and empty the reservoir. Clean the strainer and replace it.
Make sure the water heater is off and the water is cool before draining it. Open the drain plug and empty the water heater tank. Release the pressure at the pressure/temperature valve.
Leave all of the valves open.
Attach the blowout plug at the city water hookup.
use an air compressor (limited to 30 psi).
Ease the air hose on to avoid building up pressure.
Run air through the system with all valves open for five minutes.
Disconnect the air, close all the valves and replace all the plugs.
By Anti-freeze
You will need to purchase non-toxic RV anti-freeze.
Make certain that your unit is level and empty the fresh water tank.
Turn on the water pump and open each faucet. Run the faucet until the water stops flowing.
Do this also with the toilet valve and the exterior shower. Lay the shower head on the ground to make certain it is completely drained. Rubber band the toilet sprayer handle open.
Release the water suction in the city water hookup by pressing on the cone shaped valve in the center of the connection.
Turn off the water pump. If it has a reservoir, remove and empty the reservoir. Clean the strainer and replace it.
Make sure the water heater is off and the water is cool before draining it. Open the drain plug and empty the water heater tank. Release the pressure at the pressure/temperature valve.
Remove the inline water filter, if you have one.
To avoid filling your water heater tank with anti-freeze, switch the water system to "water heater bypass".
Close all drains and valves.
Using the intake hose from the water pump, draw the anti-freeze through the pump directly from the jug. Turn on the water at each valve one at a time and starting with the most distant valve, run both of the hot and cold taps until you see color.
Check the volume of anti-freeze often to avoid drawing air into the system.
Do the same with the toilet, the sprayer, the showers and the city hookup.
June 10, 2008
RV Summer Heat Safety. Preventive Tips to Keep Your RV Staying Cool
RV Summer Heat Safety. Preventive Tips to Keep Your RV Staying Cool.
Summer’s here and the time is right, so here are some tips to help you keep your cool.
Hot weather can unleash its own unique assault against your vehicle (and us), whether or not we’re too busy sunning at the beach to notice. Here’s a rundown of how to protect you and yours when the mercury starts a’risin’.
Thaw that Thing
After a long off-season of watching your motorhome or trailer gather cobwebs, most owners are itchy to hit the road once the ice thaws. Obviously, summer is the peak RV season, culminating in longer trips and often periods of hard driving in warm weather to get the family to its vacation hub.
We must remember, though, that hot and sunny days can be difficult on vehicles. Under the worst circumstances, the sun and heat can cause engine temperatures to rise and fester, fabrics and exteriors to fade and inside thermometers to climb faster than you can say, “Is it hot in here or is it me?”
As usual, the best defense against the heat is pro-active maintenance and trouble-shooting for your vehicle, along with some cool ideas in terms of managing temperatures. Since this is the time of year when the radiator and cooling system earn their keep, be especially mindful to keep fluids fresh and topped off, check for wear and flaking on belts and fans and be on the lookout for any leaks, weakened pressure cap, or other signs—and smells—of trouble.
It’s particularly important to stay on top of consistent oil changes. A timely radiator flush also is essential. Follow the scheduled maintenance as listed in the owner’s manual. Nothing spoils a trip to Disney World faster than an overheated vehicle billowing steam while beached on the side of the interstate.
Timely Touring
How and when you drive will spare your RV needless stress, wear and tear, not to mention keeping the air conditioner(s) from doing yeoman’s work while in transit. Try to schedule long periods of driving for mornings, late afternoons and evenings when the climate — and traffic — is more hospitable.
Just like you strain to run in the summer heat, so does your engine. Besides, haven’t you heard? Middays are better spent at the beach throwing the Frisbee and relaxing.
Since the goal is always to keep the engine from working harder than it has to, it’s best to maintain modest speeds and, if possible, avoid steep grades during summer heat waves. And as if you needed another reason why piloting an overloaded vehicle is a major no-no, the added weight matched with lofty temperatures gets your RV working harder than a plow horse with a tough row to hoe.
Inner Values
Escalating temperatures onboard are another trip-buster. Nobody likes to sweat out a trip that’s supposed to be fun. Fortunately, there are a number of methods to restore your cool. No, running to the nearest hotel isn’t one of them.
Obviously, the cockpit and/or coach air conditioner may be needed when the open-window policy isn’t cutting the mustard. When parked, either temporarily or for longer periods, always seek the shade and let that large tree or facade shield your rig like a big umbrella. Ask the campground for the most shady and/or breezy spot upon arrival. This move alone should cut interior temperatures drastically.
Yawning Awnings
Don’t hesitate to deploy those festive awnings when you arrive at the campsite. Remember, anything that keeps the heat off the sidewalls of your RV is a good thing. Not only does an awning provide a nice spot for the lawn chair, but it blocks harmful UV rays that would otherwise be hard at work fading furniture and fabrics inside. Employ shades, blinds or drapes onboard throughout to safeguard the interior as well.
Insulated window coverings are by far the best defense here, working diligently on your behalf to both keep the sun’s rays out and the cool air in. It has the same opposite effect during cold-weather camping, making them worthy investments or upgrades.
And while you’re at it, a cockpit windshield cover, whether purchased at Camping World or simply formed from a makeshift blanket or sheet, dodges the sun up front and will dramatically drop the interior temps.
Cold Storage
The refrigerator also bears watching (preferably with the door closed to prevent cool air from escaping) at this time of year. Chances are it will be working twice as hard to keep your ice cream from getting mushy, so give it a break and make its job easier.
Lowering the awning (the refrigerator is more often located on the same side of the RV) reduces the heating effects of the sun on the skin of the RV and thus eases the unit’s operation to maintain its colder temperatures.
Avoiding lengthy inspections of what’s inside will help keep the cold air in. Think of the cold air inside as a liquid and imagine what would happen to that precious cold mass when you open the door … the same thing happens to the cold air.
Also, getting in the habit of letting hot leftovers cool on the countertop before placing them into the refrigerator saves it some extra cooling work. Generally, fully-packed fridges maintain their temperatures better.
Walls, Floors and Ceilings
While it’s too late to do much about the vehicle’s insulation after the purchase, you’ll find favoring manufacturers who spend a little more effort in insulating the side walls, roof and flooring to be a good investment. Otherwise, even a pair of hard-working air conditioners might not be able to overcome the heat inside. Opting for “arctic” or “cold-weather” packages, where the insulation rating might reach R-25, pays off year-round. Caulking leaks and openings, especially those that always seem to form around doors and windows, not only keeps moisture out, but it also prevents your precious cold air from escaping.
In a pinch, a few 12-volt portable fans and a cold drink can go a long way.
Block Those RV Rays
Protecting your RV’s exterior and tires should also be a top priority—a major concern considering that ultra-violet (UV) rays strive tirelessly to oxidize—and other ruin them.
Polishing the whole exterior with a quality UV protector/wax will go a long way to prevent the RV sidewalls from chalking and fading. Look for similar labeling on tire cleaners and restorers as well.
Investing in a heavy-duty tire cover is a must for any exposed spare and always use a vehicle cover—preferably one designed to breath to let water vapors escape—during even semi-lengthy periods of dormancy. Slip-on tire covers are also a good idea anytime you find yourself parked for any length of time.
Dog Days of Summer
Still, nothing is as important as safeguarding loved ones during high-temperature excursions. Watching that panting beagle confirms why they call August the “dog days,” so take a few seasonal precautions to protect your treasured pets as well.
Even with the air conditioning running, we can’t advise leaving animals unattended for very long on hot days. What if the power goes out? It’s best to find ways to incorporate pets into the day’s itinerary whenever possible. An ample supply of fluids — for both you and your furry little co-pilots — is a must.
Travelers of the human variety should do the basics: take it easy, wear a hat and light clothing and always remember the sunscreen. You’ll find the SPF-15 particularly useful when lounging about poolside, saying, “Ah, summer.” But don’t forget to put a little sunscreen on those furless noses lest they get burned too!
RV Air Conditioner Tips
With warmer temperatures on the horizon, now is the time to make sure your RV’s air conditioner is in peak operating condition. Here are some tips to make sure you stay cool and comfortable in your RV this summer.
1. Change or wash the filter. If your RV air conditioner has a washable, reuseable foam filter, make sure you remove it and wash it gently, allowing it to air dry before reinstalling it. If the filter is badly damaged or soiled, or if it is not reusable, replace it with the correct filter for your air conditioner make and model. You may want to consider upgrading the OEM filter with an after-market filter designed to trap more dust, pollen and other particles. Some of these use static electricity to snag dust and other debris in the air. Camping World carries both OEM-type and electro-static filters for most RV air conditioners. It’s a good idea to check and change or clean your air conditioner filter at least once per season, or more often if you use your RV a lot or in dusty locations.
2. Inspect the condition of the condenser fins. Pay particular attention to fins that might have been crushed together by tree branches or other objects. Carefully straighten any crushed fins so that air can circulate through them. Gently remove any bugs, leaves or other debris that might be lodged in the condenser fins. If your air conditioner’s shroud does not have a built-in shield to protect the condenser fins from crumpling, you might consider adding a simple bolt-on grille. These are available for Duo-Therm and Coleman air conditioner shrouds.
3. Inspect the condition of your air conditioner shroud and its anchoring system. If your shroud is badly oxidized, brittle or has chunks missing from wear and tear, replace it now. If it seems loose or is cracked or broken in the area of the mounting bolts, definitely replace it, since it could pull free of its anchors and fly off the top of your RV as you roll down the road, causing an accident.
4. Turn your air conditioner on and test it before you leave on your first warm-weather trip. Make sure the fan and temperature controls work properly. Always make sure you have sufficient power available to safely operate your air conditioner. Don’t just run a 15 amp extension cord to the RV to power the air conditioner, as it cannot provide sufficient power for running the compressor. If you don’t have a 30 amp connection at home or wherever you store the RV, fire up your generator or wait until you have access to 30 amp power at a campsite.
Running your RV air conditioner (and other appliances) with insufficient power (brown-out conditions) can do serious damage to motors, compressors and other components. To make sure your air conditioner and other electrical appliances always have sufficient power to operate without damage, check generator or park power with a voltage-testing device. like the Good Governor. To make sure temporary campground brown-outs don’t cause damage, consider an automatic voltage boosting device, like the Autoformer
RV Awning. RV Awning Maintenance Video
RV Awning. RV Awning Maintenance Video
The recreational vehicle awning is designed as a sunshade, period. If, perhaps, it starts to sprinkle a bit and also kicks up a mild breeze - don't worry - your RV awning can handle that. But if those dark clouds are building on the horizon and the birds are seeking shelter, then you really should consider rolling up. And you really should consider rolling up, NOW.
Practice rolling up your awning on a calm day until you have the procedure memorized. Then do the same thing while blindfolded, with someone spraying a hose in your face. This will simulate a typical emergency storm take-down. Except for the wind, of course. For this simulation you will need three fairly burly guys, all yanking the awning in a different direction at once. Once you have gone through the preceding exercise, you will understand why the experienced camper will take down the awning at the first sign of trouble.
After being rolled up and possibly damp for several months your awning will appreciate a good airing out and a bath with warm water and a mild detergent. Use a car wash type brush to scrub the surface of both the top and the underside. A little WD-40 on the moving parts helps to free up and protect these components. Dry it thoroughly before re-rolling it.
Lower one end of your open awning to allow rainwater to drain off. Peg down the awning feet when the awning is free standing so that a gust of wind will not flip over the awning. Also, the awning may be straped down with the special awning straps available at your local RV store. If you suspect a strong wind or storm is coming the safest thing to do is roll up the awning.
Top 10 RV Tips For A Safer Trip
RV Tips For A Safer Trip
Rving is a great way to see these beautiful United States. Maybe you only use your RV part-time or, if you are like millions of American, you live a full-time RV lifestyle. Whichever the case here are some simple tips to make your next RV trip a little easier.
Tip #1 Traveling in an RV is about enjoying the US countryside and what it has to offer. So, don't travel more than about six hour a day. Most RV Parks close their office around 5pm each day. Try to check in at your destination, RV Resort Park, before 4pm. Also, this will allow you to setup your camp site while it is still daylight.
Tip #2 Make sure you carry a well equipped tool box when you travel. Minor repairs are just a part of Rving, so be prepared.
Tip #3 Modern technology is great and a GPS unit can be helpful, but sometimes the best tools are the simplest. So, don't forget to bring a compass.
Tip #4 Plan your trip so that you don't have to drive during rush hour traffic. Stop and have breakfast during morning rush hour and try to be off the road long before the going home traffic starts.
Tip #5 Keep driver fatigue to a minimum, share the driving duties with all licensed and qualified drivers.
Tip #6 Always carry a roll of quarters for paying the toll on the toll roads you come across.
Tip #7 It's a good idea to carry a box of disposable gloves for use when hooking up sewer pipes and at dump stations. A box of disposable gloves are inexpensive and very handy.
Tip #8 If you are a fisherman and like to carry your fishing rods with you it's a good idea to slide the rods into a piece of 2" PVC pipe to protect your fishing rod from getting broken during your travels.
Tip#9 After you have hooked up your RV and you are ready to pull out take just a few minutes and double check your travel trailer hookup or tow bar connections. Remember, its better to be safe than sorry.
These are just a few tips to help make your next RV trip a little better and hopefully safer. Don't sit around the house. Get out and see everything this country has to offer. I think you will like what you see.
RV Budgets. Cost Of Full Time RVing
RV Budgets. Cost Of Full Time RVing
Full time RVing is cheaper than owning a house, especially if your RV is paid for. You won't have any property taxes, utility bills, (except for propane) or mortgage payments. However we must still do our budgeting. Full Timers have two choices. They can stay long periods of time in one park or they can stay in a different park each night. Most Parks have lower rates if your stay is weekly or monthly. If you want to travel constantly you'll have to budget for the price of gasoline or diesel as well.
As to the rig you chose you may have the extra cost of a new tow vehicle as well as a tow package. You can also spend money on adding other options or equipment to your rig. This, of course, will depend on your life style and where you want to go. Full Timers who still maintain a permanent structure along with their RV will spend more per month than those whose only living space is their RV.
I hope the following worksheet is beneficial to you. I tried to cover everything, but if your budget is different from mine, feel free to add items not listed and cross off any items that are not applicable to you. This is a plain Jane budget and is only a guideline. I hope it is of benefit to those of you considering going full time.
Savings $____________
Campground fees ____________
Cell phone _____________
Internet _____________
Satellite _____________
Insurance RV _____________
Auto _____________
Health _____________
Life _____________
Roadside Assistance ___________
Credit cards ____________
Storage ____________
Tags RV ____________
Car _____________
Inspection RV _____________
Car ______________
Fuel cost RV ________________
Car ________________
Propane _______________
Road Tolls _______________
Credit cards _______________
Vehicle Payment
RV __________________
Car ___________________
Monthly maintenance
RV __________________
Car ___________________
Medical
Doctor ___________________
Medicare ___________________
Prescriptions ______________
Prescription Ins. __________
Food
Groceries ________________
Eating out ________________
Incidentals Entertainment _____________
Clothing __________________
Sightseeing _______________
Gifts _____________________
Subscriptions _______________
Emergency fund
Repairs ___________________
Medical ____________________
Prescriptions _______________
Grand Total ==============================
How to Modify Your Motorhome for Better Mileage
How to Modify Your Motorhome for Better Mileage
Would you believe it? Those guys that developed the chemistry sets to create bio diesel, made from deep fryer oil to replace diesel fuel, have now done it for gasoline engine vehicles. They are creating easy to build kits that generate Hydrogen from water to reduce gasoline requirements by 50% or more. At current prices, that equates to less than $2.00 per gallon used. That means that my Honda can get up to 70 miles per gallon of gas. And, I can nearly double the mileage on my motor home. You won't have to feel guilty about enjoying your favorite past time any longer.
The incredible part of it is no major changes have to be made to the engine to make it work. Nearly anyone can do it. And, the engine runs cooler and cleaner. I see nothing in the process that can damage an engine. If you should decide not to use it for a while, can't imagine why, you can simply shut it off.
What this person is selling is the "how to instructions" on how to make and install the system yourself, and it is very simple. All of the items are readily available. It only requires normal tools with one exception. Some of the parts have to be sand blasted. Most of us do not have a sand blaster in our garage. But, many companies have one, like auto service centers, that will do it for you inexpensively. For less than the cost of one tank of gas you can have all the expertise in your hand that tells you how to do it. Plus he has a help line if you should have any questions. If you do not want to build it yourself, you can buy a unit for $200.00.
I have a Degree in Internal Combustion Engines Technology. I know that most gimmicks that claim to make your car get incredible mileage are hype. The simple fact is that gasoline will only burn within a narrow range ratio ( 9:1 to 16:1 fuel air ratio). Too rich, or too lean, the engine will no longer perform efficiently. But, what these geniuses have done is mix two technologies. Hydrogen powered cars have been in development for some time. In fact, Honda is releasing one with a fuel cell in 4 years. The only drawback to broad commercial use has been safe storage of Hydrogen in the event of an accident, and fueling stations. This system generates the Hydrogen as it is being consumed. No Hydrogen storage is required. I have researched many sites, and have discovered that many have tried this and are very satisfied. Very few take advantage of the money back guarantee.
Water contains Hydrogen and Oxygen, as I am sure you are aware. Hydrogen is highly flammable; Oxygen is not, unless it attaches properly to something else. Otherwise water would be flammable. The technology has been around for some time that allows the extraction of Hydrogen from water. This system simply uses electricity from the battery to extract Hydrogen from water and mix it in the fuel system to displace gasoline. The result is a cleaner burning fuel that reduces air polluting gasses by 50%. To me that's reason enough to use it.
The process is easy. When you order on his site, the information is emailed directly to you in minutes. The information is voluminous. You will receive tons of history, and many other systems that you can build along with instructions. One system is a large Hydrogen Generator that you can build in your garage. Possibly for running a Hydrogen powered electricity generator, or anything that runs on gasoline. The directions for all of the options are simple, the photographs are well done, and shopping lists are provided. The site is loaded with interesting articles about what other people have done, some good, some not. The section to look for is Smack's Booster. You can print it directly from the site.
It angers me that crude futures keep going higher and higher, out of control, and nobody is doing anything about it, despite the fact that our oil reserves are at normal to high levels. And, nothing substantial will be done in Detroit or abroad any time soon to stem the serious gas price and pollution issues. It is going to take "little guy" technology like this to really make a difference. I have my information kit and anxiously await this weekend to get started.
Let me know if you try it, and how well it works for you. My email is tomenelson89@yahoo.com
If you would like to check it out for yourself click on http://CheapGas-tomenelson.blogspot.com
How to Check Your RV Battery. How to Charge Your RV Battery
How to Check Your RV Battery. How to Charge Your RV Battery . RV Battery Maintenance Video
How to Check Your RV Battery
Checking your battery involves performing these two tests on a regular basis.
Preparation
Step1 Access the battery you wish to check.
Step2 Make sure you are checking the 12-volt DC battery and not something connected to the 120-volt AC power supply. Run checks on all batteries in your vehicle and record the results.
Step3 Remove battery caps.
The Specific Gravity Test
Step1 Perform a specific gravity battery test by inserting the syringe from the temperature-adjusted hydrometer and extracting the electrolyte (battery acid).
Step2 Read the gravity level. Record the result.
Step3 Return the electrolyte to the battery.
Step4 Repeat this procedure for each battery cell.
The Open-Circuit Voltage Test
Step1 Perform an open-circuit voltage test only if the battery has not been charged within the past 24 hours.
Step2 Remove negative battery cable.
Step3 Read the voltage across the negative and positive posts with a voltmeter. Record the result.
Step4 Reconnect the battery cable.
Step5 Close the hood or compartment storing the battery.
How to Charge Your RV Battery
Charging your RV's battery is a simple process.
Things You’ll Need:
Work Gloves
Battery Chargers
Distilled Waters
Baking Soda
Step1Run your engine for at least five minutes.
Step2Remove battery caps and observe polarity.
Step3Check that the lead plates are covered with electrolyte (battery acid).
Step4Fill with distilled water as needed.
Step5Connect your battery to a portable charging unit.
Winter RV Battery Storage. RV Battery Storage Tips
Winter RV Battery Storage. RV Battery Storage Tips
The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging.
Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let's look at how to properly store your RV batteries.
Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce when they're charging is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear goggles and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.
Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.
When you put the RV in long term storage it's a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.
RV Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.
Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary, i.e. use one pound of baking soda to one gallon of water. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required is at the top of the plates. If it's below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.
Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80%. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12 volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6 volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.
Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.
A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It's not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the
stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.
Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. An equalizing charge is an increase in charging voltage similar to a bulk charge to convert any crystallized lead sulfate back into its original components.
If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.
For more information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD. RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/
RV Battery Drain. RV Battery Drain Tip
RV Battery Drain. RV Battery Drain Tip
There are several things in an RV that will continue to slowly drain the coach battery even when you think everything is turned off. One of the leading culprits for battery drain is the LP gas leak detector. On a lot of RVs this is designed to operate all of the time.
There are other items that we overlook sometimes like the power booster on the TV antenna, or a clock that operates off of 12 Volts. If your RV is not equipped with a battery disconnect switch you can purchase a device that installs right on the battery post. When you're not using the RV you simply lift a lever up and it disconnects all 12 Volt power going to the RV.
This tip contributed by Mark Polk at RV Education 101
RV Battery Drain Question:
When I plug in to ac power everything works fine, but when i try to use the Dc power I get nothing. The problem seems to be in the battery disconnect. The battery disconnect does not switch on. I had a weak main battery, and assumed that was the problem. I purchased a $150 battery and still have no DC power. I didn't think much about the switch itself, but now after putting a new battery in I am thinking that it must be the switch itself? As far as I know the house battery is fine ( less then a year old ). Even if it wasn't fine I should still be able to use the DC power and I cannot. What do you think?
RV Battery Drain Answer:
There are a lot of possible scenarios here. When you are plugged in, the Converter is supplying the 12 volt power. I would check the water in the batteries. Even if they are only a year old they may be junk. If you don't ck the water in the cells, they may be dry and ruined. You should check the water in your batteries ever 3 months and use only distilled water to fill them. Ck the voltage on the batteries when unplugged. Then ck it again with it plugged in. If volts increase when plugged in then the batteries are getting charged. You can now look for the disconnect. ck volts at the post, If one side is powered and the other is not, then try jumping the powered side of the disconnect to the trigger wire. If it kicks on then you have a bad switch. If doesn't, then the disconnect is bad.
June 9, 2008
RV Satellite TV Installation
RV Satellite TV Installation. Installing a satellite Dish to your RV
We did find that it is wise to purchase a Winegard satellite finding meter. It is especially useful when trying to locate the satellite from outside of the RV and TV. We have a tripod (Purchased at Radio Shack) along with 4 foot of 1.25 inch heavy walled PVC pipe and a dish to use outside, as well as a roof mounted one that can be set up from inside the RV. The outside one is used when the roof dish is blocked from receiving the satellites by trees or other obstructions, which happens more often than I thought it would. When the tripod is set up outside, I insert the Winegard meter in the coax line where the short coax, from the dish, is intended to be connected to the cable that enters the RV. It makes for very short work of setting up the dish aiming. It is removed after getting top signal levels.
One thing to keep in mind, the receiver sends about 16 volts DC to the horn on the dish, through the coax. In the horn there is a signal amplifier and the DC provides power to it. The strange thing is that the DC is present even if the receiver is turned off. The DC is only removed by unplugging the receiver. For that reason, if you are dry camping with an inverter, unplug the receiver to keep from using unnecessary power. This is no big deal for the normal household installation. Following instructions, the household set up is only done once and dismantling is seldom to never done. When you are doing it as much as 2 or 3 times a week things can get out of hand. Before connecting any coax or meter to the dish or receiver, unplug the receiver. The same is true in reverse when putting the system away and packing it into the RV.
Another major difference between satellite and cable TV is the coax that needs to be used. RVs and homes are wired with RG-59 coax. It is very sufficient for cable TV or resending the amplified TV antenna signal to other places in the RV. The satellite dish antenna connections must be RG-6 only. This type of coax is better constructed and has a much larger core wire. Some RV dealers will install the dish coax lead with a portion of the coax run being RG-59. This will work under good circumstances, but low signals levels will be caused, giving you troubles while other RVs around you are receiving well. What this means is that one cannot simply plug the coax from the dish to the normal cable connection on the RV. That simply won't work. First, the dish signal is digital and will not pass through the normal RV preamplifier, which is for analog use only, so it would need to be bypassed.
With that in mind, how does one get the new RG-6 coax into the rig and at the point where it can pluged it into the back of the receiver? We have a motorhome. We routed the coax from the receiver area which is above the passenger seat, through a windshield post, under the dashboard, to under the hood. From there we use a male to male connector to attach the longer RG-6 coax that will run to the outside dish. We roll up that long coax on a reel designed to hold long extension cords, like those sold in Kmart or Walmart. That avoids kinks, which is a disaster to satellite reception and a pain in the neck to store. If your installation kit comes with a length of RG-6 having a grounding wire with it, strip off the grounding wire. Most RVers will never use it and it gets in the way as well as making it almost impossible to roll up the coax. Most new installation kits have dispensed with the ground wire as a part of the coax anyway.
If you are going to install one of the roof mount dish antennas, do not let anyone talk you into replacing the regular broadcast wind-up, directional antenna with the satellite dish. Some will tell you that they put a little directional regular antenna on top of the dish and it will work like the old antenna did. It will, but for only about 30% the distance and clarity of the regular one. Satellite TV is absolutely fantastic for getting good, clear reception from a multitude of stations and subjects, almost anywhere you park your RV. However, it will not give you the local news coverage, local events or sales that you can get from the regular old wind up, directional antenna coupled with the usual factory installed amplifier. If you largely lose that capability you will surely regret it quickly. If an installer tells you this is the best way to go, leave immediately. He or she has no concept of the extent to which you would pay for taking this "short cut". Also, they will obviously be wanting to use the existing RG-59 cable from the old antenna, which will even degrade your satellite reception under poor conditions. It is a lose-lose situation that some have agreed to and sorely regretted.
In most installations, the satellite receiver becomes the point where all signals come together. The normal RV coax, which contains either the campground provided cable TV and/or your own TV antenna stations, plugs into the back of the satellite receiver at a connection labeled "TV antenna or coax in". The TV or VCR is in turn connected to the satellite receiver labeled "Output to TV". In this case one either selects Satellite or regular TV, depending on which they wish to view. You cannot be watching Satellite TV in the salon while another is viewing a local broadcast station in the bedroom or at an outside entertainment center. The entire RV is provided either Satellite or Cable/TV antenna functions, but not both at the same time. When selecting satellite, only one channel can be selected on the satellite receiver at a time. If you want multiple capabilities, Camping World and many RV centers sell a small box that everything connects to. With this option one TV viewer could be watching satellite TV and the other watching a local TV station from the regular antenna or both could view regular antenna or cable TV on different channels. We don't find this necessary and compromise on our viewing preferences, which other than for some limited sports programs are fairly similar..
The above subjects are things the installation manual mostly doesn't tell you about. Other than program selection options, the rest is appropriately discussed in the manuals. We bought our Dish, receiver, and a monster installation kit from Sound Advice for a total of $99.95. The installation kit alone is normally about $100.00. It was called a Hughes DSS system. It simply wasn't renamed or resold as some other brand. Sound Advice gets a big commercial rebate for first time Direct TV users and that is the reason it was so inexpensive. I recently saw the same price and offering by Circuit City. It really paid off being a first time potential satellite TV subscriber, with a name, address and telephone number not on any satellite TV provider's records.
The first month you will get free full USSB options/channels and almost full, but somewhat paid for, DSS service. Since you get the full channel and option service from DSS free for a month, there is no benefit selecting high cost options initially because you will be billed for that immediately. Select the lowest cost possible option initially at $14.95 and upgrade to what services and channels you decide to keep at the end of the trial month. During that period you must decide what services to keep. DSS tries to market their total choice package $29.95 and/or their Silver or Platinum plans at more cost. If you ask, they will tell you about their basic package for $14.95, which contrasts so badly on channels and offerings, few people would want it. DSS doesn't mention a selection called "Select Choice", which includes almost everything the total choice has, except CNN Headline News and CNN Financial for $19.95. From DSS we choose "select choice" and the 24 package that includes all 5 major broadcasting networks for $5.00.
To be authorized to receive the 24 package of all network broadcast stations, you will have to answer many questions over the phone. Just say "no" to everything and do not deviate from that single answer. The series of questions is designed to make certain you do not have a cable company or TV broadcast station that could otherwise provide a similar, reliable service. Obviously, you do not have such regular, reliable service from an RV. Make certain they know you will be using the system from an RV, will not have it plugged into a telephone line, and that the mail address you provided is for billing and literature only. Keep stressing that you are calling from a pay phone. It is important to over emphasize that your satellite receiver will not be connected to a telephone line. The service operator must make a specific entry into their data base, otherwise they may discontinue service when your receiver has not reported in to them (over the phone) for over a month or so. From USSB we negotiated for their 5 HBO channels for $10.95. The total cost of all this is now $35.00 a month. One could do just fine with just the Select Choice at $19.95 plus the 24 all major network providers package. They don't tell you this, you must know it in advance. You can elect to have the monthly bill charged to your credit card
As I understand it, a feature in the satellite receiver has a buffer that stores pay-for-view requests. Apparently, without connection to a telephone line, one could opt to and receive about 10 pay movies, either intentionally or by accident. The first time the receiver is connected to a telephone line it then "calls home" to report your authorization and they will then bill you, whether or not you actually viewed the movie. This feature was apparently designed to allow for very busy telephones or disconnections from a single phone line in a home not having the ability to permanently connect the satellite receiver to a telephone line. To get around this possibility, we programmed a user option in the receiver that allows us to set spending limits. We set that to zero. If I accidentally click on a pay for view channel it notifies me of my error and encourages me to change my spending limit, which I ignore and get the heck out of the pay for view channel area. There seem to be hundreds of pay for view channels. Had we not done that, we would have eventually been billed for 3 movies I might think about watching but would not have thought them worth paying for. I have this irrational thought that if the thing doesn't reconcile it's buffer stored billing with mother computer at home base, the whole darned system will shut down until I let it call home. I really haven't got a clue what would actually happen or when. I can't imagine removing it and carrying it to a campground phone line or connecting it to a cellular data phone for it to "do its thing", although I guess you could do that. So, we just don't allow for selection of pay for view options.
Basically, DSS offers high channel availability of everything but movie type only channels. USSB offers all the movie type channels but no normal programming. They both have a multitude of Pay-for-View channels. Between them they offer everything imaginable, including access to all basketball, professional or college football and golf. Although DSS has an offering for a set of movie channels, it is not of the HBO, Showtime type that one expects to be available from a normal cable franchise. For most of us, the trick is to mix it up and get what is wanted from DSS and/or USSB, without getting taken by selecting everything from both of them.
We really wish we had done this years ago. Now that the prices are this low, it is senseless for us not to. Dollar-a-day cable charges in many RV parks are now unnecessary and offsets some charges. I am an advisor for "Computing On Line" and have articles posted under "articles and editorials" at this WEB site (RVers Online). If you have an interest in maintaining communications with friends, relatives, or to maintain a business via telephone, Email on the Internet or FAX, you might get some assistance by reading them.
RV satellite TV equipment
The satellite TV equipment you'll need for your RV is the same as the equipment you have in your home - a satellite TV dish and receiver. You can even use the dish and receiver you have in your home, but for convenience sake most people end up getting a second dish and receiver for their RV.
Because you'll be on the move you'll need a movable stand so you can aim your dish at the satellite. The least expensive stands allow you to manually align your dish whenever you stop for the day. There are also dishes that automatically align your dish, and even "in-motion" systems that track a satellite as you drive so passengers can watch satellite TV while on the move.
To locate a dealer for RV satellite TV stands do an Internet search for "rv satellite tv dish mounts," call you local RV dealer, or check eBay for used equipment.
Satellite TV Providers
There are three major satellite TV providers - DIRECTV, DISH Network, and Sky Angel.
DIRECTV
DIRECTV is the largest satellite TV provider and is ranked second in customer satisfaction among satellite TV providers by J.D Power. They offer 250 channels of satellite TV programming including sports packages, movie channels, pay-per-view programs, and XM satellite radio channels.
DIRECT Programming starts at $41.99 per month for 155 satellite TV channels and goes up to $96.99 per month for 250 channels. You get a free satellite TV dish and up to four free receivers when you subscribe to their service.
DISH Network
DISH Network is the fastest-growing satellite TV provider and is ranked first in customer satisfaction by J.D. Power. They offer 350 channels, including movie channels, sports packages, Sirius satellite radio channels, and pay-per-view programs.
DISH Network programming starts at $19.99 per month for 40 satellite TV channels, and goes up to $74.99 for 350 channels. When you subscribe to their service you get a free satellite TV dish and up to four free receivers.
Sky Angel
Sky Angel is a Christian-oriented satellite TV provider offering Christian TV shows, special events, conferences, children's shows, inspirational programming, and radio programs.
Sky Angel's programming package is $14.99 per month and includes 20 TV program channels plus 15 satellite radio channels. Their equipment costs $149 for one satellite TV dish and one receiver.
Satellite Internet Service
With satellite Internet service you can surf the web and get your email anywhere in the world. Satellite Internet service offers and always-on connection, a connection speed that's 10 times faster than dialup service, and multiple email addresses.
Bottom line
If you want all the comforts of home while you travel the open road, then satellite TV is a must. The equipment's free and you can get programming for as little as $19.99 a month. If you spend much time on the Internet, consider including satellite Internet service with your satellite TV service.
Heartland Bighorn Fifth Wheel Review. 2008 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
Heartland Bighorn Fifth Wheel Review. 2008 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
Heartland have only been building RVs since 2004; already they're in the top 10 fifth wheel manufacturers and they tell RoTi that they expect to be in the top 5 soon. Such rapid growth they must be good!
The Heartland Bighorn comes in 3 lengths and 7 floorplans. The longest model is 33'7" long and the shortest 28'3". We show 3 floorplans below.
Heartland have advised RoTi that base MSRPs are in the range $40,000 to $45,000.
Heartland's patent-pending front cap design, which features a 30 percent increased turning radius, perfect for short-bed trucks.
Heartland says: "The stunning new Bighorn is nothing short of spectacular - in both its luxurious interior appointments and outstanding design concepts. Featuring real hardwood cabinets, including stiles, oil-rubbed bronze hardware and lighting, elegant furnishings, flush-floor slideouts, and an abundance of interior and exterior storage space, the BIGHORN is truly a fifth wheel that is taking affordable luxury to the next level.
Some of the features of the Bighorn:
Four interior decors
Hand crafted cabinetry - all hardwood, Amish-Crafted
Roof, Sidewall and Slide Rooms feature a Double-Welded Aircraft Quality Aluminum Superstructure Cage Construction
Large storage areas
Wide range of interior and exterior options
2008 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel Video
Winnebago Vectra 2008 Review. Vectra Winnebago Video
Winnebago Vectra 2008 Review. Vectra Winnebago Video
Winnebago Industries flagship, the Winnebago Vectra,
The Winnebago Vectra unveils the new Maxum chassis in 2008. The Maxum features a revolutionary inverted rail design which Winnebago Industries engineers worked closely with Freightliner Custom Chassis to develop. The 34,320-lb. GVWR Freightliner XCL chassis features an inverted rail design that creates a stronger chassis configuration, a lower center of gravity and incorporates an industry leading 60 degree wheel cut for improved handling and performance. The Maxum chassis also offers a powerful and clean 425 hp Cummins engine with six-speed transmission, independent front suspension and a rear radiator. The Vectra’s new clean air diesel engine emits 1/60th of the soot compared to a diesel motor home built in 1988, and provides a 90 percent reduction in emissions.
The 2008 Vectra features three floorplans, the 40TD, 40FD and 40KD. The double slide 40TD is spacious with two large slideout rooms – a 30-inch wide flat floor driver’s side slideout that’s 15 feet 11 inches long, and a 24-inch wide passenger side flat floor slide that’s 21 feet 6 inches long. The galley is forward in the coach, with a dining table and chairs and entertainment center, including a 37-inch high definition LCD TV, mid-coach. The 40TD also offers an available theater style seating module that’s perfect when watching your favorite movies – especially with the new Sony® Home Theater Sound System that includes a combination DVD/VCR. Other floorplan highlights include a spacious bathroom with curved walls for an attractive look, two sizable wardrobes and rear 27-inch LCD TV.
Base MSRP for the 2007 Vectra started at $270,406. Here's some of the key features for the 2008 Vectra:
New Maxum™ chassis featuring a revolutionary inverted stacked rail design
Three innovative floorplans – the 40TD, 40FD and 40KD
Newly designed exterior basement storage
60-inch slideout tray with built-in drawers that extend with the tray – optional
Side-hinged exterior compartment doors
New entrance door with roll-up screen
Newly designed dining module with buffet on 40FD and 40KD
37-inch high definition LCD TV is featured on the 40TD and 40FD, with a 32-inch high definition TV found on the 40KD
27-inch LCD TV offered in the bedroom of the 40TD, with a 20-inch LCD featured on the 40FD and 40KD
Three new interior decor choices
Full body paint with a new design and colors
One-piece windshield with radial arm system
Winnebago Motorcoach Video:
MB and Kitty Go RVing
Our dear, dear friends MB and Kitty of Tuscon AZ, are on their break and takingout the 5th wheel for some summer rving fun. They sent us this email about the rv trip thus far:
We arrived in Page Springs RV resort ( 10 miles from Sedona) right on time, and parked right next to the rushing Oak Creek. That next day, we decided on hiking to a “vortex” called Vultee Arch. It was 5 miles of high clearance, bumps and grinds at 5 MPH. Once we got there it was a great 3 mile hike, but we knew we had to return over that road… Both our back were out at the end of that journey!
Back at the RV, as we were settling in, somewhere along the line I got bit to death. I never saw any mosquitoes, so they must have been “no-see-‘ums. MB and I did a few more hikes, me scratching. We went “herping” which is trying to find lizards and snakes. I was able to identify a few species that I hadn’t seen before. Overall, it was a good stay.
Onward to Colorado. We went to the 4 Corners (Utah, AZ, CO and New Mex.) and had a great archaeological experience at the Anasazi Heritage Museum. There are at least 4,000 archaeological sites there that archaeologists know of. We went to a Lowry Pueblo, which was situated on top of a hill, and had several rooms.
The next morning we headed for Gunnison (highway 550), but stayed at Ouray, CO that night. The drive from hell. We were warned via AAA that it would be bad. 90% of it was typical mountain roads. The last 4 miles WE THANKED GOD WE WERE ON THE INSIDE LANE!!!!! There is no way we will take the outside lane, going south. We weren’t sure which smell was more familiar: hot brakes or hot transmission fluid. Ouray is at 8,300 feet in the middle of a ravine. It’s actually a caldera, has a beautiful 300’ waterfall that we walked to the base of and a 285’ deep ravine. I woke up in the middle of the night in a panic. MB calmed me down and assured me we wouldn’t do that road EVER AGAIN!
That morning we got down the rest of the way off that mountain and drove to Blue Mesa Reservoir, where our RV resort reservations were. A few summits later, up and down, smells and all, we get there, and it’s today. The wind is gusting at 40mph, the cat almost got out. Bridget (dog) did go for a run without us, but came home (thank God, again) but we are tied down, now, and trying to relax. Probably only be here for 8 days, and then head back to Sedona. This time with a supply of bug repellant.
We’ll keep you posted. Love to you all, Kitty and MB
June 6, 2008
Transform a Bus Into an RV Palace. Bus Coverted To Luxury Motorcoach
Transform a Bus Into an RV Palace
With the right mix of DIY skills and vision, a bus can be converted into a durable, fully appointed mobile home. Icemaker included, no tickets required.
Champ had never built a vehicle before, but having worked on everything from lawnmowers to locomotives, he felt he was ready for a challenge. He envisioned a mobile dream home, and he drew its footprint with masking tape on the floor of his shop. Then he laid out rods of steel square tubing and began to weld, leaving ample space for panoramic windows. To arch the roof bows, he built his own steel bender. The resulting skeleton was 43 ft. long, 12 ft. high and 812 ft. wide (the legal limit), and Champ mounted the front and rear suspension of a '98 Freightliner semi on it. To that he added a Detroit Diesel 6V92 with a Jake Brake and aftercooler, as well as a five-speed Allison automatic transmission.
The only items that Champ salvaged from his rusted-out bus were the spring hangers and the identification plate. So as far as the DMV is concerned, Champ's creation is a 1951 GMC. Yearly cost of registration: $55.
Near the Nobody II, Byron Belmont of Eugene, Ore., had parked a genuine GMC—a 1962 passenger bus custom painted with panels of grays and blues. When Belmont—a one-time helicopter mechanic, railroad brakeman and potato farmer—bought the 41-seat Trailways coach 20 years ago, it had been running between Texas and Oklahoma. Determined to make the bus taller, Belmont whacked the structural ribs with a Sawzall, hoisted the roof and then re-joined the ribs with 8-in. bars. Of course, this required buying a welder. When I asked if he knew much about welding at the outset, he said, "I do now."
To combat summer heat, Belmont created an 8-in. attic between the new roof and the ceiling and installed a draft fan to pull air out of the cabin, keeping a constant circulation of cooler air overhead. He then started on the bus's interior, first plumbing a bathroom and kitchen, next wiring all the components, using marine gauges for monitoring and switches. He installed wood floors in the kitchen and marble in the bathroom, and custom-fit all the closets and cabinets to the peculiar curves of the rounded ceiling. He spared no expense, using only oak and black cherry for the wood trim. The kitchen is nicer than those in many people's homes, with a four-burner propane stove, fridge, microwave, dishwasher, built-in blender and icemaker. "It's an investment of love more than money," Belmont told me. "Everything's personal to it. And each bus has its own personality."
We were sipping Black Velvet under a shade canopy when a purple rig pulled into the berth beside us. Byron and his wife Joanne jumped out of their chairs to greet its owner, Joni Goodman. A pretty blond woman with a deep suntan and dangling silver earrings, she had the warm twinkling eyes of someone who'd spent a lot of winters in Baja California.
Goodman's bus has become her lifestyle. In 1989 she and her husband bought the 1973 GM Buffalo, filled the empty hull with raw materials and headed up to Alaska. A year later, they'd converted the Greyhound's interior with solid teak paneling, a roomy kitchen and a custom bathroom.
When Goodman's husband died, she learned to drive the bus herself, naming it the Strayhound. It wasn't easy being a widow in a world of couples, and Goodman remembers just one other single woman on the tour—that is, the migratory herd of RV and bus owners that roams Arizona and California in the winter and the Pacific Northwest in the summer.
"We'd drink wine and cry on each other's shoulder and curse mechanics," Goodman said. She regretted not having learned more about how buses worked when she was younger, so she started a crash course, reading the owner's manuals for diesel engines and other repair books. "I had to know at least enough to fool the mechanics into thinking I knew what they were saying."
For most of a decade she drifted back and forth between Alaska and Mexico. Then, in 1998, she piloted the Strayhound to an RV jamboree in Oregon. In pulled a rig hauling a double-decker trailer with a jeep and a Hobie Cat. The boat's name: Straycat. The driver's name was Rick Fox, a woodworker with gray locks flowing to his shoulders, a real gold nugget lashed to his throat and gemstones in both ears. Within nine months she and Fox were married.
The two have been traveling together for nine years, with occasional layovers in Coos Bay, Ore. Goodman has driven the Alaska Highway 42 times. At first it took Fox a while to take ownership of the vehicle—"You don't just jump in and take over a woman's bus," Goodman says—but since then he's proved an ideal partner. Fox installed a Greasel conversion kit: The Strayhound now runs on straight vegetable oil from the disposal bins of diners. They've also installed solar panels on the roof, which can send as much as 24 amps into a bank of six marine batteries, enabling them to run their electronics without having to fire up the generator.
Prefabricated RV Storage Buildings. RV Storage Buildings
Prefabricated RV Storage Buildings
For quick assembly, prefabricated RV storage buildings are pre-cut, pre-drilled and pre-welded at the factory. Prefabricated storage buildings can be placed on concrete pillars or concrete floors. It is possible to add on, modify or expand your RV storage building after many years. It is even possible to move the RV building to a new location.
Prefabricated RV storage buildings are available in different models. They are A- model, P-model, Q-model, R-model, S-model and T-model.
A-model prefabricated RV storage building features a 4:12 roof pitch for steel garages. It is also available with 40' width and unlimited lengths. P-model is ideal for a back yard garage or workshop, single or multiple car garages, and as equipment shelter. The P-model RV storage building size ranges from 14' to 30' wide with unlimited lengths.
The Q-model design is ideal for grain and livestock storage, boat and automobile storage, retail outlets, heavy equipment storage etc. Q-model has no poles, beams or obstructions and maximizes useable interior space. It is available in sizes from 20' to 100' wide with unlimited lengths. Q-model has high strength, durability and is economic. R-model has a simple roof system and conventional appearance. R-model is ideal for storing ore coal, salt or any large quantity materials.
S-model is a straight sided, curved arch roof, prefabricated RV building. This gives the building maximum floor space. The S series buildings range in size from 16- to 50- width with unlimited lengths. These buildings are perfect for commercial, industrial and military applications. T-model prefabricated RV building is a versatile arched structure with one open side wall. The T-model RV buildings have an efficient three sided shelter with multiple openings to provide easy access and economical equipment storage.
Compared to traditional garages, the RV storage buildings are affordable and easy to construct. Steel beams combined with standard size wood accessories can survive from tornadoes, hurricanes, typhoons and earthquakes for more than 35 years.
RV Window Bug Cleaner. RV Window Cleaner Gets Bugs Off
RV Window Bug Cleaner. RV Window Cleaner Gets Bugs Off
RV and Motorcoaches have such big windows that bugs just can not help but avoid them. Cleaning the bug guts is a messy job and often leaves streaks and smudges.
These bugs are greasy and very difficult to remove especially after they’ve baked in the sun and welded themselves to the glass. You almost need a sand blaster to get these things off. Fortunately there is a great product that does the job the first time. The product is called “Bugs r' Off” and is sold by a company supplying a wonderful line of RV products.The company is Coil n’ Wrap and you may purchase Bugs r' Off online by clicking here: Coil n’ Wrap. Watch this great vide below and get your RV windows clean of bugs
June 5, 2008
Water FIlers For Your RV. Adding A Water FIlter To Your RV
A water filter in your RV will make everything healthier and more pleasant on the road. Drinking, cooking, showering, etc.
One of the nicest ways to vacation, or even to live, is to own an RV. The freedom of the road is at your fingertips, and yet you always have a comfortable place to stay. Having your own hotel on wheels allows you to visit some of the most beautiful places in the country, a different one each day. There are many features and luxuries that can be added to make your RV living even more pleasant.
One of the best additions you can make to your RV is a water filter. Since, when you are RV’ing, you never know where you will end up or what kind of water will be there, assuring that you drink clean pure water all the time should be a top priority for you.
When you shop around for a water filter, make sure you check out the companies that make water filters specifically for RVs. A great resource is the RV Water Filter Store. In addition to having a great supply of items for rivers, this company is known for its constant update of the latest and the greatest products.
Camping World is very well known in the RV world as a supplier of items for RVs, so you can be sure of finding a full selection of water filters for RVs there as well. Keeping your fresh water clean and free of contaminants is easy with a water filter from this company, especially given the selection they offer.
Among their choices are:Portable Water Softener, Systems IV Exterior Water Filter, Water Filter Stand, Hydro Life RV/Marine Exterior Water Filter Kit, Ever pure Replacement Cartridges and Culligan RVF-10 Exterior Water Filter. Quite an array.
Camping World also has many other products for your RV that you may want to check out while you are there. There are air conditioners specially formulated for RVs, propane, heaters (both electrical and solar), furnace, fans, generators, air coolers, vents, storage solutions, maintenance items, garages or covers to store your RV in during the off season, weather stations and thermometers, TV satellites or receivers and sophisticated navigation systems like GPS for RVs.
If you are just shopping for a water filter, consider the Water Filters On line Company. This company has one of the biggest selections of water filters to be found today. You are sure to find the exact water filter yo need.
If you have not yet installed a water filter in your RV, this is one of the first things you should consider doing. It is nice to have some luxury features in your RV to make traveling more pleasant and easier, but clean water should be one of your first considerations, whether at home or traveling.
About the Author: Andrew Caxton is a syndicated columnist on different resources like http://www.evaporative-air-coolers.com .
RV Loan Tips. How To Finance A RV, Recreational Vehicle
RV Loan Tips. How To Finance A RV, Recreational Vehicle
"It's the freedom and the comfort," explains Peter Scalf, RV owner and founder of RV Advice of the WWW. "It's basically like being at home wherever you go. You can take off. You can just hit the road. You don't have to have a real destination."
But before you can start on that journey, there's all kinds of financial maneuvering that needs to be done. Landing a good financing deal on a recreational vehicle takes some work.
First off, a recreational vehicle is considered a luxury item. You'll need good credit to qualify for financing.
"You have to have a better credit profile to purchase an RV than you do a car," says Howard Haskin, senior vice president and business development manager at Essex Credit Corporation..
"If you don't have good credit, you're probably not going to be able to get one."
The journey of a thousand miles...
Banks, credit unions and independent finance companies all offer RV financing. A list of RV financing companies is available on the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association Website. Financing can also be arranged at RV dealerships..
As with autos, you want to have a financing deal in place before shopping for your vehicle. That way the dealer will have to beat the interest rate on the loan to get your business.
"My advice to them basically is check with their bank first," Scalf says. "Shop around so you know what interest rates are, what the value of the coach really is. Check it out."
People get so excited about finally purchasing an RV that they're not as careful as they should be when it comes time to crunch numbers. Scalf has heard from people who end up paying thousands too much in interest. One reader learned that his RV was worth $10,000 less than the purchase price.
"They can get buried left and right," Scalf says.
Interest rates on RV loans are closely tied to auto loan rates.
"It's really similar because that's what the market bears for that kind of loan," says Karen Mason, director of publications for RVIA. "The auto and RV end up being very similar kinds of rates."
Bankrate.com lists national averages for new car loans as well as rates available in local markets around the country. At this writing, the national average for a four-year new car loan is 9.68 percent.
The rate on an individual's RV loan is determined by the finance amount, length of loan and a person's credit quality. Rates at Motorhomeloans.com range from 9 percent to 10.5 percent. At Essex Credit, interest rates on RV loans range from 8.75 percent to 13 percent.
"Not everybody is going to qualify for the best rate," Haskin says. "You should do some homework. You should compare what's available in the market."
Lightening the load
A big down payment or a big balance can help drive down the interest rate on a loan. Most lenders require less than a 20 percent down payment and many lenders require a down payment of less than 10 percent. There are even some zero-down loans.
Accepting a loan with prepayment penalties may also nudge down the interest rate a bit. But you'll pay a price for paying ahead on one of these loans.
"It could be anywhere from $50 to 1 percent of the loan amount. So it could be $1,000," Haskin says. "In return for it, you may be able to get a better rate, so you want to look at those things."
Most RV loans are simple interest rate loans. With a simple interest rate loan, the amount of each payment that is allocated for interest is determined by the loan's unpaid principal balance, the loan's interest rate and the number of days since the last payment. The rest of the payment goes to a loan's principal.
Most RV loans come with 10-day grace periods for payments. So you have 10 days past a payment due date to get your check to the lender before a late fee, which could range from $10 to $50, would be charged.
Many RV lenders offer automatic bill pay. With automatic bill pay, a loan payment is automatically deducted from a bank or credit union account on a certain day of the month.
"If you're an individual that might be traveling a lot in an RV, that might be convenient," Haskin says.
Terms on RV loans typically range from 10 years to 15 years but can go longer. For larger loans, say $50,000 to $100,000 or more, many lenders will allow you to extend the loan term to 20 years.
RV owners are known for making steady, on-time loan payments year after year.
"Historically, RV loans have an extremely low delinquency rate nationwide. Generally, it's under 2 percent," Mason says. "The people who purchase these vehicles tend to be very reliable on loan payments."
For most RV owners the interest on their loan is tax-deductible as second-home mortgage interest.
To qualify, the RV must be used as security for the loan and it must have basic sleeping, toilet and cooking facilities. Almost all RVs, from motor homes to van and truck campers to travel trailers, come with these facilities.
For more information on the tax deductibility of RV loan interest, contact the Internal Revenue Service. Copies of "Publication 936 - Home Interest Deduction" and "Publication 523 - Selling Your Home" are available by calling 1-800-829-3676 or by visiting the IRS Web site.
Once the research, number crunching and paperwork are done, RV owners can get down to the fun part.
RV Dump Station Tips. How to Empty RV Holding Tanks
RV Dump Station Tips. How to Empty RV Holding Tanks
Here are some tips to follow when emptying your RV's holding tanks. (See below for a suggestion on how to empty your RV's holding tanks.)
When emptying both the black and gray tanks, dump the black-water tank before the gray-water tank so the "soapy water" from the gray tank can clean the residue from the hose.
Don't dump the black-water tank until it is at least two-thirds full. Don't leave the black-water tank valve open when hooked up at a campsite. This will cause liquids to drain, leaving solid waste behind to harden on the bottom of the tank.
Use a heavy-duty sewer hose about 6 to 8 feet long to make handling easier.
Carry an extra garden hose for rinsing in case the dump station doesn't have one. Store this in an area where it won't come into contact with your drinking water hose.
Never use your fresh water hose for rinsing sewer hoses or the dump station area.
Wear protective rubber gloves and avoid touching the outside of the gloves.
If others are waiting to use the dump station, skip the tank flushing and hose rinsing steps. Pull away from the dump station and then add some water and chemicals to the holding tanks.
Never put anything other than the contents of your holding tanks into the dump station.
Leave the dump station area cleaner than you found it.
How to Empty Holding Tanks
Here's a suggestion on how to empty your RV's holding tanks.
First of all, don't open any valves until the proper time! Doing so will be met with rather unpleasant results. You may consider wearing a pair of rubber gloves in the event some effluent gets on your hands. Some folks will also wear rubber boots. As long as you're careful, any splashing is minimal.
Remove the holding tank outlet cap and connect your three-inch sewer hose to the outlet of your holding tank. Extend the hose to the opening of the dump station, which is usually a hole in the ground that is slightly larger than the three-inch hose.
Insert your sewer hose into the dump station's hole about four to six inches. Use the hole's cover, a brick, or something heavy enough to hold the sewer hose in place so it doesn't come out of the hole.
Once you're sure that all is connected and held down, open your black tank valve. You'll hear the effluent flow and eventually it'll slow, then stop. Close the black tank valve.
Now open the gray tank valve. Again, you'll hear water flow, then slow, and stop. Close the gray tank valve.
At this point, you're almost done. If you want to flush and rinse your tanks once more, you can do so by filling your tanks to two-thirds full and repeat the emptying process. If others are waiting to use the dump station, skip this step.
Recheck that both your black and gray water tank valves are closed and disconnect the sewer hose from your tank outlet. Replace the tank outlet cover. Lift the end of the sewer hose (the end you just disconnected) to completely drain the hose into the dump station. If a non-potable water hose is available, run water through the sewer hose to rinse it out. Remove the sewer hose from the dump station hole and rinse the outside of the hose. Rinse the area around the hole to ensure that any spillage has been cleaned up and cover the dump station hole.
Go in to your RV and add about five gallons of water (about three flushes) to your black tank and then add the appropriate amount of holding tank treatment. If you use a treatment for your gray tank, do that as well.
The task of emptying your RV's holding tanks is finished! Now it's time to move on to your next destination.
Dump Station Abuse
For years RVers have been pulling into Interstate rest areas and other areas with free dump stations to empty their holding tanks. But because of abuse, many states are removing dump stations from their rest areas and campground owners and others view their dump stations as an expensive maintenance headache. Dump station abuse amounts to folks leaving a mess or putting things into the dump drain that just don't belong there. Remember, somebody has to clean up the mess or clean out the drain. Dump station abuse causes aggravation, creates a health hazard, and costs money. You can do your part to ensure RVers will continue to have free and clean dump stations by following the simple tips mentioned above.
Hitching Your Trailer. How Trailer Length Affects Towing Stability
Hitching Your Trailer. How Trailer Length Affects Towing Stability
This really a big part of the traditional American Dream isn't it? Quality family time with a recreational vehicle, getting away from civilization, but doing it in the comfort of a brand new travel trailer. I don't think it could get much better.
There's only one problem. It's a windy day. When you were picking up your new travel trailer at the dealership the other day it never occurred to you just how scary it could be to tow your nice long trailer down the highway in a serious cross wind.
Dealing with the wind is a fact of life if you're going to be any kind of RV enthusiast, so make sure you understand how to tow safely in it.
It really all comes down to the length of your trailer relative to the length of the vehicle you're using to tow it with. Think of it this way - it's all about leverage. If your trailer is long relative to the wheelbase of the vehicle you're using to tow the trailer, you could be in for an interesting vacation.
A travel trailer has a broad profile in the wind, so if mother nature is blowing hard, or if you're getting passed by tractor trailers at high speeds, your trailer basically acts as a sail. It's not unlike carrying a piece of four foot by eight foot plywood.
If you've ever had that experience you know what I'm talking about. The plywood acts like a sail and it can drag you all over the place if you don't know how to handle it.
The same way it takes strength to handle that plywood in the wind, it takes a long wheelbase on your tow vehicle to handle the tug of a relatively long travel trailer. If you've got a twenty-three foot boxy trailer and you're pulling it with a small SUV, chances are you're going to get jerked around quite a bit.
But, that same small SUV would have no problem at all with a small folding tent trailer. It's all relative.
As a general guideline I'd suggest that you could pull a trailer approximately twenty feet long as long as your vehicle has a wheelbase of at least 110 inches. So that's about nine feet of wheelbase to handle twenty feet of trailer.
If you want to get a longer trailer, I'd recommend that you have at least four inches of wheelbase for each additional foot of trailer length. That way you're always making sure to keep the ratio of trailer length to wheelbase high enough.
One last thought is you should not only consider the total length of the trailer, but also the distance from the coupler (or tongue) to the axle of the trailer. There will be a big difference in stability for a trailer where that coupler to tongue distance is really short, compared to one where it's really long.
6 RV Travel Tips For Begginner RV Travel. Checklist for RV Beginners
6 RV Travel Tips For Begginner RV Users
With baby boomers reaching retirement age, more and more people are taking to the road with their motor homes, RVs or travel trailers. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association recently reported that nearly 8 million American households have an RV, motor home or travel trailer and that there are as many as 30 million RV enthusiasts in the U.S.
Seeing the country in an RV offers many benefits for travelers seeking an affordable and exciting way to spend quality family time. According to one study, a family of four can save up to 74% traveling by RV over more conventional travel. And with more than 16,000 public and privately owned campgrounds in the US, there’s a site to fulfill everyone’s vacation fantasy, whether it’s an oceanfront view, hiking trails, casino gambling or tennis.
6 Tips for Successful RV Travel
RV travel is easy to learn, and once you’ve got the hang of it there’ll be no going back! Here are six helpful tips that will come in handy for both beginning and seasoned RV enthusiasts:
Make sure to bring the correct road maps, and a GPS system is a good idea as well, especially if you’re new to RV travel.
Carefully designing the route you’ll be taking will make it easier to do spur-of-the moment things like checking out that oddball museum you just spotted on a roadside billboard!
Have A Checklist? Just Checking
During your pre-trip prep, in addition to working out what needs to be in the RV, put together a thorough checklist of things to do when setting up at an RV campground.
There are the basics:
Locate all campground connections
Make sure your RV is level
Properly hook up your water, gas and electric systems
Don't forget comfort concerns, like making sure you packed your favorite CDs and DVDs, and those new lawn chairs.
Equally important, you should have a second checklist of things that have to be done to break camp and set up your RV for departure (Quick hint: when you think the job is done and everything is ready, check again).
Be Prepared with a “Just-For-The-RV” First-Aid Kit
Always make sure you have a fully stocked RV first-aid kit, and keep it in an outside storage compartment.
Your RV first-aid kit should include basic medical supplies:
Bandages
Ointment
Over-the-counter pain reliever
Insect repellant
Scissors
An emergency supply of must-have medications
Plus the following extras for your RV:
Flashlight and extra batteries
Paper and pens
A disposable camera in case you have to take photos of an accident site.
Cell phone and charger
If you don’t feel up to the task of putting together an RV first-aid kit yourself, an extensive range of ready-made first-aid kits is available for purchase.
Don’t forget to include a list of important contact information, including family members, doctors, insurance agents, etc. [Editor’s note: Leave a copy of your itinerary and your contact information with a family member or friend, in case you need to be located in an emergency.]
RV Camping with Kids and Pets
If your RV travel includes children, make sure to set aside time during the day for outdoor activities, as even the roomiest RV can be confining for kids.
And give each child his or her own space in the RV (no matter how small) for toys, games and personal stuff.
RV travel is a unique opportunity for your children to see new and different places and faces. There are often plenty of other kids at campgrounds – but be sure to walk around a new campground with your children when you first get settled there. They need to know how to find your campsite and navigate the RV grounds. If you plan to bring the family pet, check beforehand to confirm that pets are allowed at the RV campground.
A Little Help From Your Friends
When in doubt, ask your fellow RVer. However well-traveled you might be, odds are there is someone you’ll meet along the way who has been somewhere you haven’t, solved a problem you haven’t yet encountered, or spotted an out-of-the-way delight you’ve never heard of.
No matter how much research you’ve done, there’s bound to be an RV campsite you haven’t read about, a storage system that has escaped your notice, or a funny anecdote that you’ll laugh about for years to come.
The new folks you meet may or may not become close friends for life, but they are an important part of your RV journey.
