Coachmen 2009 Freelander Class C Motorhome

Coachmen Freelander Class C Motorhome Gets 'Best in Class' Fuel Mileage

DDLEBURY, Ind. — With its fuel economy pegged at an estimated 17 to 19 miles per gallon, Coachmen's newest Freelander Class C motorhome gets best in class mileage while retailing at an unbelievably affordable price.

Coachmen builds the Freelander 2100 CB on a Freightliner Sprinter chassis. The aerodynamic front end design and the efficient Mercedes 3.0 L V-6 turbo diesel engine are credited for the estimated 17 to 19 mpg. The MSRP on the Freelander 2100 starts around $89,000.

Freelander 2100's length is just under 25 feet, making the coach very maneuverable. The vehicle size and the comfortable cockpit create a driving sensation similar to an automobile or SUV.

Coachmen designers packed a ton of features into this smart floorplan. On the outside the Freelander 2100 has a class leading 78 cubic feet of exterior storage accessed with large side swing doors. Step inside and you can comfortably sleep six — two in the master bed, two in the cabover bunk and two on the convertible U dinette. Coachmen also fitted the cabover bunk with a safety net to prevent falls.

The galley features an aluminum sink with a high spout faucet that makes it easy to fill larger pots with water. It has a microwave oven as well as a range and oven and plenty of storage. A bench separates the galley countertop from the driver's seat in the cockpit. When the bench is not in use, the countertop can expand two additional feet with a pullout extension. As always, Coachmen designers have ensured there is extensive interior storage.

The U-dinette in the living area slideout, makes this coach even more spacious. Adding to the roomy feel is the tall seven-foot ceilings and large windows throughout that let in plenty of natural light. A 19-inch LCD HD-ready television is mounted on the wall across from the U dinette.

Freelander 2100 has its own bathroom with a tub/shower, a sink and a porcelain toilet.

Because it is so fuel efficient, functional, and affordable, the Coachmen Freelander 2100 is the perfect coach for couples or young families who want to enjoy the RV lifestyle.

Coachmen Industries, Inc. is one of America's leading manufacturers of recreational vehicles, systems-built homes and commercial buildings, with prominent subsidiaries in each industry. The Company's well-known RV brand names include COACHMEN®, GEORGIE BOY™, SPORTSCOACH®, ADRENALINE™ and VIKING®.

RV Solar Kit. Components Of An RV Solar Kit

RV Solar How-To - The Components of an RV Solar Kit

Social and environmental responsibility doesn't end at the front door. Increasing numbers of RV owners are recognizing this fact. Many have begun a movement, taking environmental care on the road in response. Outfitting an RV with a solar kit can greatly reduce the regular traveler's carbon footprint. Fortunately, solar kits make solar how-to simple and efficient for the average recreational vehicle owner.

RV Solar Panels. Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

Converting an RV to solar power has numerous implications. Naturally the greatest is the reduced negative impact that solar power has on the environment. Few in this day and age are unaware of the problems that heavy reliance upon non-renewable energy sources creates.

The quest for clean, renewable and low-impact energy generation and consumption has fueled the solar trend. Homes, commercial buildings and schools in addition to RV's are converting to solar power in greater numbers than ever. Governments have begun to grant tax breaks and other benefits to developers who incorporate sun energy into building practices.

Another benefit is energy cost savings. Conversion can be expensive. More often than not though, the long-term savings pay for the initial investment. The savings often continue long after the investment is paid for.



RV solar kits are what their name implies. They contain all of the components necessary to convert a recreational vehicle from electrical to solar power. Those components vary kit-to-kit, though basic parts are the same. It helps to understand what the components are when deciding which kit is appropriate for one's own travel needs.

A standard RV solar kit typically includes:

1) A charge controller. Charge controllers may also be referred to as charge regulators. A charge controller is similar to a car's voltage regulator. The voltage regulator in a car automatically maintains a voltage level. A charge controller works on the same principle. It regulates the current coming from the solar panels atop the RV heading to the battery.

The charge controller, in essence, prevents the battery from "frying." The average RV battery requires around fourteen volts to charge. A twelve volt solar panel may actually generate upwards of sixteen or more volts, dependent upon sunlight. This much would damage the average battery. The charge controller helps ensure that no more than fourteen volts reach the battery case. A charge controller may not be necessary, depending on watt output. A charge controller is usually necessary for most RV applications though. An assessment of power usage can help determine this.

2) Solar panels. They are also referred to as photovoltaic panels, after the science behind the technology: photovoltaics. The solar panels gather and channel or concentrate the sunlight, converting it to energy. An individual panel consists of a number of photovoltaic or solar cells. The cells are grouped together for efficiency to create a panel. Solar panels have varying wattages according to the number of cells they are made of. The panel produces a measure of amps in accordance to its wattage. A ninety-watt panel produces about five amps of power per hour of sunlight.

3) An inverter charger. Sometimes this component is simply referred to as an inverter. This device changes DC voltage (direct current or unidirectional electricity flow) to AC voltage (alternating current, which reverses direction cyclically.) This electricity can be at whatever voltage is required for the application. Standard market inverters are produced in twelve, twenty-four, thirty-two, thirty-six and forty-eight volts. Sometimes this component can be purchased with a switching kit to allow for increased voltage when needed.

These three basic components comprise the main hardware of an RV solar kit. Additionally, most kits come with all of the items necessary to install the system. This typically includes hardware, mounting devices and wiring. Additional features like remote controllers can sometimes be purchased, either as part of the kit or as an added feature.

It's recommended that a professional dealer be consulted to help determine the right solar kit for a particular recreational vehicle. A solar how-to pro will be able to assess power needs by individual travel habits and type of onboard appliances. Professional installation is also recommended to ensure optimum performance.

Video instructions for your next solar project. Solar How To. information is free and available to you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sean_Burton

RV Solar Panels. Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

Steps For Installing Solar Panels on an RV

Thousands of recreational vehicle owners have joined the movement toward a greener earth. Thanks to solar how-to technology, RV owners have more options when it comes to travel. More of them than ever are harnessing the energy of the sun instead of relying on non-renewable energy sources. Using solar energy to power a camper or fifth-wheel is both environmentally friendly and cost-efficient.




RV solar kits make converting to solar power convenient and economical. Do-it-yourselfers with advanced handyman skills can save even more money installing their own solar panels. It's important to note that installing solar panels may not be a job for a novice. Incorrect installation could lead to poor performance or damage to the vehicle. Self-installation may sometimes nullify a warranty. Be sure to clarify this before beginning.

The first thing the advanced do-it-yourselfer should do is assess his power needs. This can be considered a "pre-step" in the installation process. Determining power needs will reveal how many solar panels are needed to deliver the correct amount of energy. Those panels must actually be able to fit on top of the vehicle and still meet those needs.

The panels will need to be installed in a place that doesn't disrupt the function of the vehicle's roof components. It helps to find a place where wiring can be run easily, such as close to a vent. Solar panels must be approximately six to eight inches from the edges of the roof.

1) Start by disconnecting all power sources in the vehicle. This includes the battery.

2) Cover the solar panels. Simply leave the wrapper on if the panels come wrapped in paper or cardboard. Otherwise, cover them with something non-transparent. The panels will begin to generate a charge prematurely if not covered.

3) Prepare the installation location by marking the perimeters of the panels on the roof. A laser sight can help ensure that the panels line up.

4) Drill holes where needed for the mounting hardware. Make sure to locate and avoid any interior wiring before drilling.

5) Insert the mounting hardware into the holes and secure. Fill extra space around holes with sealant if needed.

6) Place the solar panels into the mounting hardware. Secure or tighten according the directions on the packaging. Different types of panels have different hardware so follow instructions carefully to avoid damage.

7) Install the regulator in the interior of the vehicle. It's usually best to mount it within a wall.

8) Guide wiring from the panel(s) on the roof to the regulator inside the vehicle and connect. Follow instructions carefully to avoid injury and ensure optimal performance.

9) Connect wires from the regulator to the battery. Again, follow instructions carefully. Polarity must be correct.

10) Reconnect the battery.

11) Uncover the solar panels. Power should begin generating right away if the sun is shining even partially.

The guiding principles behind all types of solar kits are the same. The variations are found in the mounting hardware. Do-it-yourselfers should have a thorough understanding of how the hardware works before beginning. Proper installation is critical to the performance of the system. Human error may result in damage to the system itself or injury to people. Improperly secured panels may loosen during travel or break away altogether, leading to an accident.

Solar kits can be expanded as needs change as long as there is space atop the roof to install another panel. Simply add another when power demands increase. RV solar kits typically cost between one and five thousand dollars. This may sound like a great deal of money at first. However, frequent travelers almost always find that the kit pays for itself within several months to a few years.

Besides saving money, solar-powered RV travel is not reliant upon finding places to camp that have electrical outlet access. Even remote camping becomes a viable possibility for those with the desire for an extreme experience. Solar how-to technology opens up a whole new world of possibilities when it comes to enjoying the environment. It also helps to ensure that the environment is there for long-term appreciation.

Video instructions for your next solar project. Solar How To. information is free and available to you.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Sean_Burton

RV Definitions. RV Vocabulary. RV Lingo

RV Terms. RV Vocabulary. RV Lingo

Backup Monitor
A camera in the back of a motorhome, with the monitor positioned somewhere on the dashboard for the driver, to aid in backing up the motorhome. It is also used while driving to see the traffic behind and to keep an eye on the towed vehicle.

Ball Mount
The part of the hitch system that supports the hitch ball and connects it to the trailer coupler. Ball mounts are available in load carrying and weight distributing configurations.

Boondocking
Also known as dry camping, boondocking refers to camping without any hook-ups, namely camping without hooking up to any electric, sewer or water facilities. You can still have electric from your RV batteries and water from your freshwater holding tank.

Black (Water) Tank
The gallons of black water waste that can be held. Black water is the waste from the toilet.

Break-Away System
A system designed to automatically lock the trailer brakes in the event of a hitch failure and the trailer breaks away from the tow vehicle.

Converter
An electrical device for converting 120-volt AC power into 12-volt DC power. Most RVs with electrical hookups will have a converter, since many of the lights and some other accessories run on 12-volt DC.

Diesel Puller
The term for a motorhome with the diesel engine mounted in the front of the vehicle. Also know simply as a Puller.

Diesel Pusher
The term for a motorhome with the diesel engine mounted in the rear of the vehicle. Also know simply as a Pusher.

Dinghy
The term for a vehicle that you are towing with your motorhome. It is also known as a Toad.

Dry Camping
Also known as boondocking, dry camping refers to camping without any hook-ups, namely camping without hooking up to any electric, sewer or water facilities. You can still have electric from your RV batteries and water from your freshwater holding tank.

Dry Weight
The weight of the RV without any fuel, fresh water, propane or passengers.

Dump Station
A facility for dumping or emptying your black water and gray water holding tanks.

Equalizing Hitch
A hitch that utilizes spring bars that are placed under tension to distribute a portion of the trailer's hitch weight to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer's axles. This hitch is also known as a weight distributing hitch

Fresh (Water) Tank
The gallons of fresh water that can be stored for later use.

Full Hookup
The ability to connect to all three of the campground's facilities; electric, water and sewer.

Full-Timers -or- Full-Timing
The term used for people who live in their RV full-time, or at least the vast majority of their time.

Generator
An electrical device powered by gasoline or diesel fuel, and sometimes propane, for generating 120-volt AC power.

Gray (Water) Tank
The gallons of gray waste that can be held. Gray water is waste from the sinks and shower.

Hitch Weight
The amount of a trailer's weight that rests on the tow vehicle's hitch. For travel trailers this weight should be 10% to 15% of the total weight of the trailer. For fifth wheels this weight should be 15% to 20% of the total weight of the trailer.

Holding Tanks
There are three different holding tanks on most RVs: Fresh Water, Gray Water and Black Water. The fresh water tanks hold the water you will use for water you will pump into your RV when you are not getting water from an outside source. The gray water tank holds water from your kitchen and shower. The black water tank holds the water and waste from your toilet.

Hookups
The ability of connecting to a campground's facilities. The major types of hookups are electrical, water and sewer. If all three of these hookups are available, it is termed full hookup. Hookups may also include telephone and cable TV in some campgrounds.

Inverter
An electrical device for converting 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power.

LP Gas
Liquefied Petroleum Gas. LP gas is used to fuel appliances in the RV, such as the stove, oven, water heater and sometimes the refrigerator. Propane tanks are usually rated as pounds or gallons.

Part-Timers
The term used for people who use their RV more than usual (more than just a few weekend trips a year), but who still use it less than full-time.

Pop-Out:
The term for a room in an RV that pops out for additional living space.

Popup or Pop-Up
Another name for a folding camping trailer.

Porpoising:
A term used to define the up and down motion in an RV while traveling.

Puller
The slang term for a motorhome with a front-mounted diesel engine.

Pull Through
A camping site that allows you to pull through while setting up and leaving the area. A site where you do not have to back into or out of.

Pusher
The slang term for a motorhome with a rear-mounted diesel engine.

Safety Chains
A set of chains that are attached to both the trailer A-Frame and the tow vehicle while towing. Safety chains are intended to keep the trailer attached to the tow vehicle in the event of a hitch failure, preventing the trailer from completely separating from the tow vehicle.

Shore Power
Electricity provided to the RV by an external source other than the RV batteries.

Slide-In
The term for a type of camper that mounts on a truck bed, because this type of camper slides into the truck bed.

Slide-Out
A room or area in your RV that slides out to make additional space for living.

Tip-Out
The term used for an area or room in an RV that tips out for additional living space. The Tip-Out was generally used in older RVs. Newer RVs mainly use a slide-out.

Toad (towed)
The term for a vehicle that you are towing with your motorhome. It is also known as a Dinghy.

Tow Bar
A bar used for connecting a towed vehicle to the motorhome for towing with all four wheels on the ground.

Trailer Brakes
Brakes that are built into the trailer and are activated either by electric impulse or by a surge mechanism.

Weight Carrying Hitch
A hitch designed to accept the entire hitch weight of the trailer. This hitch is also known as a dead weight hitch.

Weight Distributing Hitch
A hitch that utilizes spring bars that are placed under tension to distribute a portion of the trailer's hitch weight to the tow vehicle's front axle and the trailer's axles. This hitch is also known as an equalizing hitch

Wet Weight
The weight of the RV with the fuel, freshwater and propane tanks full.

Wide Body
The term for an RV exceeding the normal eight feet wide. Wide Bodies are usually 102" (8' 6") wide.

Weight Terms
Gross Axle Weight Rating (GAWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, that can be placed on the axle. If an axle has a 3500-lb. GAWR and the RV has two axles (tandem axles), then the RV would have a Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of 7000 lbs. (see GVWR below)

Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, allowed for the trailer and tow vehicle. This rating includes the weight of the trailer, tow vehicle, fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR)
The manufacturer's maximum load weight, in pounds, allowed for the vehicle. This rating includes the weight of the vehicle plus fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers.

Net Carrying Capacity (NCC)
Sometimes called the payload capacity, this is the maximum weight of fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers that can be added to an RV without exceeding the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR).(see GVWR above)

Payload Capacity
The maximum allowable weight that can be in or on a vehicle, including all cargo and accessories, fuel, freshwater, propane, passengers and hitch loads.

Unloaded Vehicle Weight (UVW)
Sometimes called the Dry Weight, it is the weight of the RV without adding fuel, water, propane, supplies and passengers. The manufacturer's UVW will not include any dealer-installed options.

How much stuff weighs!
Propane weighs 4.25 pounds per gallon
Water weighs 8.3 pounds per gallon
Gasoline weighs 6.3 pounds per gallon
Diesel fuel weighs 6.6 pounds per gallon

Rv Battery Tips. Deep Cycle Battery Tips. Neglected RV Batteries

Rv Battery Tips. Deep Cycle Battery Tips. Neglected RV Batteries

The RV coach battery(s) are one of the most important and neglected components in the RV. The converter in an RV also has a battery charger. Whenever you are plugged in to electricity, or the generator is running, the coach battery(s) is being charged. It is also being charged by the automotive alternator when you are driving the RV or in the case of a towable RV if you had a charge line wired into the light plug. This constant charging depletes the electrolyte level in the battery(s) cells. If the battery is not maintained properly it will fail much sooner than it should. Depending on how often the battery(s) is being charged will determine how often it needs to be checked.



You should check the battery(s) at least monthly and if you use the RV on a regular basis and / or you leave it plugged in when you’re not using it you may need to check the battery(s) more often. If you are not familiar with batteries and battery maintenance have them checked by an authorized service center. Batteries can be extremely dangerous. They emit gases that are explosive and they contain a very corrosive acid. If you do perform your own maintenance certain precautions must be taken.

Do not use an open flame or smoke around batteries. Avoid any electrical arcing or sparks around the battery(s). Wear protective clothing and safety glasses and avoid getting any battery acid on your skin or clothes. If the electrolyte levels are low in the cells use only distilled water to fill them to the proper level. If you do come in contact with battery acid flush the exposed area immediately with a lot of cold water.

Source: Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Battery. Types of RV Batteries

RV Battery. Types of Batteries

There are different battery types for very different purposes. In this article we will be referring to the "chassis" battery and the "coach" battery. A "chassis" battery starts the engine and runs the automotive systems in either the motor home or the tow vehicle. A "coach" battery powers the lights, furnace, water pump and other 12 volt devices in the coach.

Starting Battery - this battery is designed to supply a large amount of current when needed to start the engine on a motor home or tow vehicle, and then be immediately recharged by the vehicles alternator. Deep discharging of this type will drastically shorten the life of the battery.

Marine Starting Battery - This battery is a compromise between the starting battery and the true deep cycle battery. The plates are heavier and more firmly mounted to endure the pounding of a marine application.

Deep Cycle Battery - this battery is built with heavy plates and other internal modifications to enable it to deliver a reletively small amount of current over an extended period of time. Care must be taken when recharging at high amperage settings and limitations exist to prevent plate warping.

Batteries and Battery Charging
The battery (or batteries) supply your RV with 12 volt DC electrical power to operate the lights, water pump, furnace and other appliances. They should be viewed as a storage tank for electricity and as such they have certain limitations.

The capacity of the battery relates to the amount of electrical power that the battery can store and that capacity will determine how long your lights will burn and how long your furnace will operate, before the battery will need to be recharged. You can increase the storage capacity of your battery by installing a larger size or by installing multiple batteries, depending on your camping requirements.

If you normally travel from RV park to RV park, where hookups are available, then one battery will be sufficient. However, if you "dry camp" at remote locations for more than a day or two, you will need more storage and some way to refill that storeage capacity.

Deep cycle batteries (or any battery, for that matter), should be recharged as soon as possible for longer service life. A deeply discharged battery should be slow charged over a long period of time, say at 2 amps for 72 hours or more to avoid excessive heat in the battery.

If you leave your battery on a charger, either the one built into the converter or a separate charger, for long periods of time, make sure charger voltage is between 13.25 and 13.75 volts. Anything above 14V will overcharge the battery and "boil" off a lot of the battery water. See Battery Products at Camping World

State of charge chart for 12 volt batteries:
12.70 volts 100%
12.50 volts 90%
12.42 volts 80%
12.32 volts 70%
12.20 volts 60%
12.06 volts 50%
11.90 volts 40%
11.75 volts 30%
11.58 volts 20%
11.31 volts 10%
10.50 volts 0%

Batteries should be checked after at least 3 hrs. rest.

Batteries Isolators and Charging Relays

Battey isolators are devices used to allow the RV battery to be charged by the vehicle alternator while the engine is running. When the ignition is turned off, the RV battery and the starting battery are effectively disconnected or "isolated" from each other. Relays are an alternative method of achieving the same thing.

Isolators use electronic circuitry to divide the alternator output between the two batteries. Diodes (one way electrical components) are used to prevent the RV battery from draining the starting battery when dry-camping.

Relays are electro-mechanical devices that basically do the same thing as a battery isolator. Relays are simple switching devices that use a tigger current from the ignition system to connect the RV battery and the starting battery together when the engine is running. When the ignition switch is turned off, the trigger current is also turned off and the switch opens (disconnecting the two batteries). This allows the RV battery to be charged from the vehicles alternator when the engine is running, but prevents the RV electrical system from depleting the staring battery while camping. A continuous duty relay should be used as opposed to the typical starting relay. These are available at most RV supply outlets.